mustoskiff.com

I am trying to understand this setup on the front page of the site http://www.mustoskiff.com/pimp-my-skiff/trapeze-lines.htm

There line and splice I understand, but where is the cleat and handle or is there a second set of lines? Can we get some more pictures please?

Both Ben and I have this system on our boats, so you can see the next time you are down the club.

Paul
373

I would also appreciate more pictures

PaulM wrote:Both Ben and I have this system on our boats, so you can see the next time you are down the club.

Paul
373

Paul,

I shall wander the dinghy park like David Attenborough with camera in hand then.....well the grass is quite long in places!

Thanks
Mark
260

Hi guys

No need to go further than here http://www.mustoskiff.com/pimp-my-skiff ... -lines.htm

Hi kids, I'll try to clarify what I can. Basically, I measured Iver's system and took photos of it at Weymouth then went home and tried to duplicate it. The photo & description is the result. My brain kept exploding trying to figure it all out - until I sat on the couch with a scrap length of line and just put one together with knots. Once I did that, it all made sense. So I recommend anyone struggling to just give it a go. I've spent a few weeks trying to get a photo which clearly shows whats happening and you'll just have to trust me that this is about as good as it gets.

I run tacking sticks, so my handle is well further down the system than what is in the photo. For a normal trapeze system, the tie-lite block on the right of the pic is where the handle would be. The thimble on the left is the end of the line going up to the mast.

So I took my trapeze lines and set it so that the ring is just below the rack bar. That's as low as it goes. Now, at the top of the clamcleat is the handle (probably a disk and hose straight out of Ovingtons right?) so the distance from the becket of the cleat to the top of the hose is, lets say 250mm. From that point, measure a further 1200mm up the trapeze line - thats where you splice in the top thimble.

Now, the 1200mm between the top of the handle and the ring you've just spliced is where the coarse adjuster is going to go at full extension. Take 2400mm of line - I used 2.5mm dyneema. Add 200mm each end for eye splices. Add a further 500mm for the handle (2x250mm) so the total length is 3300mm. Splice a locking brummel in one end with a thimble in it.

Take the free end, pass it down through the top of the hose, through the disk, through the becket of the adjuster cleat, then back up through the disk and hose. Pull the slack through so that the thimble is tight against the top of the hose and lock-stitch so that nothing will move. You should now have 2600mm of line left free. Use that line to set up the purchase as per the photo and finish off by creating an eye-loop around itself without a thimble. This cannot be a locked splice, so I just passed the free end of the line back up itself and stitched it so that it wouldn't slip.

And thats it. I've been using the same trapeze lines for the Musto & the 800 since I did this without problem. Those that still don't get it, don't worry as there is a long cold winter coming up and spending the occasional evening sitting on the couch playing with rope is infinitely more satisfying than sitting there watching the idiot-box. Just try it, it will work.

If you want some more photos, I'll be sailing a winter series in Muiden in late November, early December - you're welcome to come look and measure and I might even help you make one.

If it's still too difficult then get in contact with Kuipers Nautic to buy a complete trapeze system with tacking sticks. Otherwise, Ant Chapman can supply these made up ready for a normal adjuster system.

I will take some pictures of mine tomorrow and post them on here so its a little easier to understand

Dan

is this to adjust the length of the trapeze line before the adjuster?

yes mate, does the same as an adjustable splice....just more pimp.

but why not just have the splice??

surly its easyier you people and your boats hehe

The benefit of the other system is that you can make it longer with you weight on it. you cant with an adjustable splice like shown in the pic

Dan

The pimped version is much better, easier to change and can be adjusted under load downwards.

Im not to sure on the way Iver has done his though. The one that i have can more than 1/4 in length, not just half. there is no need for the blocks in the system either. I will post a pic when im down at the boat tomorrow

Dan

Not pimp now you lot have given a reason for it....a bimble now surely.

DangerBoy wrote:Not pimp now you lot have given a reason for it....a bimble now surely.

True.....