STANDARD BOAT SPECIFICATION - Feedback here

Use this thread to share technique tips or ask questions of the experts. Also discuss boat modifications and rig tuning.
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Rick
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Re: STANDARD BOAT SPECIFICATION - Feedback here

Postby Rick » Mon Aug 21, 2017 2:22 pm

Fit the blocks by the mast foot for the downhaul a bit further forwards so the ropes don't get chaffed by the inboard end of the boom.


Suggested at the GBR AGM to upgrade the rudder pin to one that is threaded to reduce the vertical play in the rudder; seems like a good idea.
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Re: STANDARD BOAT SPECIFICATION - Feedback here

Postby Peakey » Mon Aug 21, 2017 4:10 pm

1. Move the kicker block back on the wing. Everyone does this.
2. Supply elastic and clip for the outhaul retainer.
3. Twisted shackle on the kicker (this has already been mentioned). It definitely needs changing.
4. Mainsheet cleat wedge. My mainsheet cleat was too low.
5. Adjustable strop rope. Again, everyone seems to do this.

There seem to far more people messing around with their rudder and centreboard gaskets than there used to be. The pubes on my rudder gasket are not thick enough and coming off, so the rudder lifts, even though I've padded it out.

As I said to Paul, I think the boat comes to you in outstanding order. Just a few tweaks to make it easier for everyone to sail from the off.

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Re: STANDARD BOAT SPECIFICATION - Feedback here

Postby Bruce » Mon Aug 21, 2017 5:16 pm

Agreed with some exceptions:
1. Move the kicker block back on the wing. Everyone does this.

I don't! :) I prefer it where it is, otherwise it is more to trip over or get caught on when trying to get through the wings in a capsize.
4. Mainsheet cleat wedge. My mainsheet cleat was too low.

I found trying different length shackles to raise/lower the height of the ratchet block solved this, so that you don't have to change the cleat height.

Polar bear pubes need to be 2/3 width on the bottom of the daggerboard case and full width on the top. Full width for the rudder. In my opinion the pubes should have the join at the back too. Ovis seem to join in the middle, which makes it easier for the corner to peel off and double over, making it impossible to get the board up or down.
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Re: STANDARD BOAT SPECIFICATION - Feedback here

Postby George354 » Tue Aug 22, 2017 3:57 pm

Another option for the twisty vang issue could be a simple forkhead block direct to lever, wouldn't reduce the lever travel as much as adding a twisted shackle. Every little helps!

Have just read a comment about a small webbing strap/strip on the kite sock to tuck and secure the daggerboard. I think it's a great idea to reduce potential damage.

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Re: STANDARD BOAT SPECIFICATION - Feedback here

Postby DanV193 » Tue Mar 27, 2018 9:40 am

Packed up and trailed my new-to-me boat to the Rutland Open last weekend.

The one thing that struck me was how awkward the new black Mainsail bags are, the old yellow ones were much better, the new ones... what a PITA. They are only just big enough to get the sail in if it is tightly rolled. I got it on the second attempt with a makeshift sail tie.

I think it is mentioned in the first reply on this thread by PaulM, but then nothing.

Other than that the boat and the minor changes to it since I have been away seem great (don't really understand the window in the kite sock).
Dan Vincent
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Re: STANDARD BOAT SPECIFICATION - Feedback here

Postby Bruce » Tue Mar 27, 2018 11:30 am

I agree with the sail bags comment, and I am sure anyone who has ever used one does too. I have also heard that as they don't breathe, sails go mouldy if you leave them in the bag damp. They are also too bulky to be folded up and stuffed into the Ovis handbag when not in use. Yellow ones were much better.
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Re: STANDARD BOAT SPECIFICATION - Feedback here

Postby olisouth » Wed Mar 28, 2018 1:01 pm

i used an old buff to hold the main so as to get it into the new style bags, much kinder on the sail too, but the bags are a PITA.
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